Laying between the Tiber and the hills above Lake Trasimeno, where Hannibal routed the Roman army, the Niccone Valley is where Umbria and Tuscany meet. The many castles and fortified borghi that are dotted around its slopes are evidence that this hasn’t been a harmonious shared history.
The modern valley hosts fantastic bars, shops and restaurants, walking and cycling trails and abundant wildlife. Lisciano Niccone, and Mercatale across the bridge on the Tuscan side, are a beautiful walk away from San Martino, where you’ll find delicious coffee, wine, spirits, pizza, gelato and more, a weekly market (Mercatale, Tuesdays), groceries, a fabulous bakery, butchers, post offices, ATMs and lunch and dinner options.
There are regular food and arts festivals and sporting events from spring to autumn. In winter the valley offers a peaceful retreat, often cloaked in a stunning sea of morning mist. A thick hot chocolate in front of the fire of a local bar is one of our favourite treats after a winter stroll.
Just beyond the valley, Umbertide hosts a Saturday morning Slow Food market, and the beautiful borgo of Montone draws an international audience for the annual Umbria Film Festival, whose president is Monty Python’s Terry Gilliam.
Restaurants and bars
- Bar Mafalda, Lisciano Niccone
- Bar De Licius, Lisciano Niccone —bar-pizzeria
- Ristorante Da Gianna, Lisciano Niccone — pizzeria-restaurant
- Bar Petrina, Mercatale
- Bar I Giardini, Mercatale — bar-pizzeria
- Ristorante Mimmi, Mercatale — restaurant
- Lo Scoiattolo, Cima di Gosparini — bar-restaurant
- Ristorante alle Scuderie, Reschio — restaurant
- Ristorante la Castagna, Preggio — restaurant
- Osteria del Tempo Perso, Preggio — osteria, bar, grocery
- Osteria Bar Il Pino, Sant-Andrea di Sorbello — osteria-bar
- Ristorante Le Capannine, Sant’Andrea di Sorbello — restaurant
- Ristorante Calagrana, Spedallicchio — restaurant
- Ristorante Simon Corsetti ai Girasole, Molino Vitelli — restaurant
- Ristorante La Locanda di Nonna Gelsa, Niccone — restaurant
